It just ain't possible to adjust the lift linkage on the 8N Ford unless you have a jig to use so that the end of the control rod ends up in the right position. The NH-410B is the current New Holland Agriculture OEM specification that is equivalent to Ford ESN-M2C-134D. Wrong? "@context":"https://schema.org", document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. It is critical. It runs out quicker and more "stuff" is suspended in it. It is bent forward which I thought would help if anything, wrong? (7) Place the position control lever in the forward position. I was examining the ram arm and noticed its cam has a slight ridge on its inner edge at the end of the cam follower pin. If you don't have tools to straighten what is bent, new parts are available. Get a replacement or straighten the one you have. We keep the brush down in the woods. Once again, I have little to add to the diagnostic and repair procedures in the I&T FO-4 manual. I replaced the pin, but still need to order Zane's jig to properly adjust. "userInteractionCount": 5 Wrong? When having a 5' foot bush hog connected to the 3 pt arms, the lift height is maybe 3" to 4" max. "url": "https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/graphics/smllogo.png", To raise the plow pull touch control all the way up to raise the plow. It is bent forward which I thought would help if anything, wrong? It is bent to the front which I would think would help me. We had one in the shop but I didn't have a clue what it was for until I attended the training session on the lift. Little heat and came off pretty easily. Took the yoke off the draft sensing spring. JavaScript is disabled. BTW, did you see my bent control arm pic? Get the adjusting jig from Zane. Get a replacement or straighten the one you have. Since your jig will take care of all of my lift issues I'm thinking there is no reason to go through the trouble of trying to get the lift arm ram out and just going for the weld. BTW, did you see my bent control arm pic? When I was plowing in the spring, when the arms were actually as low as it would go and the tractor would start to loose traction, a slight lift of the position lever would bring the plow up, but then I would have to push down on the draft control lever to get the plow to go higher. "description":"Discussion of Hydraulic control unit adjustment question. Should the cam be smooth across its width? If the hydraulics dont go up at all, its likely that the ball socket is the problem (worn out or jumped out of place). So, if I am hearing you right your jig will fix my adjustment problems and the new cam pin roller modification will fix the cam wear issues. Welding certainly sounds easier if it will do the job. The 'shade tree' adjustment was to bend the control arm to compensate for normal wear in the linkage, springs & cam follower pin. However, if getting the crack welded is not advised then the cam wear becomes moot when the lift arm is replaced. The two-sided linkage on the 9N/2N is a much bigger pain in the rump to get hooked up than the single-ended linkage for the 8N. This post was edited by jasmith503 at 16:49:31 06/09/15. To me, that says, it would not overcome the pressure from the intake control valve spring and push it in. If that is loose or the seal was leaking, plan on replacing the bearing and seal while you have it out. We had one in the shop but I didn't have a clue what it was for until I attended the training session on the lift. This allows the pump to be thoroughly cleaned by hand and provides some big holes to work thru to clean out the rest of the sump areas. This provides a much more positive seal to eliminate the small leakage from the cast iron rings. "dateModified": "2001-10-31", When it is time to reconnect the linkage, get one ball in the socket, align the other side, then flip the wedge out. To find this position, slightly loosen the four cap screws that support the quadrant. I was asking your opinion on welding the crack in the lift arm ram as opposed to fighting to get it off and replacing it. Thanks, while I was hunting around I did see the postings yesterday re Zane's jig, etc. "height": 57 When we cleared an acre 30 years ago the tractor got a majority of its work dragging logs. If it won't go easy, stop and figure out why. Welding certainly sounds easier if it will do the job. A really hard freeze could actually crack something. Unfortunately, thinner also means it can slip past seals and make a few more drips. Is the something else I should change to get the valve to completely open? (6) Install the hydraulic unit on the tractor, making sure that the end of the control arm enters the opening in the valve control lever and that the control arm is not bent or damaged in any way during this operation. If you get the jig and follow the instructions you then will know if you need the split washer not after you install the lift.. Tightening the nut increases the force required to move the lever. The scratches or grooves will chew into the new neoprene seal and it will leak worse than ever. While I was working on the hydraulic system, I decided I would make a seperate short video detailing the hydraulic lift cover linkage adjustment Oddly enough, it is not the entire cam that is worn, maybe only the first third of it. Please use the navigational links to explore our website. Where are they and what do they look like? } Then, wet some rags & stuff them in the cover to catch the shavings when you grind it back down. Its generally not an immediate pressing problem. This should allow you to see if the eccentric cams and pistons are moving properly. Thanks for the suggestion. Look for leaks coming from above. If the hydraulics either go all the way up or all the way down (with no control in the middle), the problem is likely with your pivot pins. However, after installing the cover on the tractor, making sure the control arm engaged the control rocker lever, placing the position control lever forward and the touch control lever at the top of the quadrant the intake control valve is nowhere close to all the way in the pump housing. There is only one position in which the quadrant support plate can be located where both of the above conditions will be met. "interactionType": "https://schema.org/CommentAction", Luckily the tractor gets little work. Remove those and the shaft pulls straight out the back. The 8N hydraulic system is simple yet elegant and works great when properly adjusted and maintained. Plate was about 1/32 concave on one edge. Still, that is just native grass and weeds. I just replied to another response to my post, with a pic and a question. After starting the lift arms go all the way up and will not come down. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Thanks. I'm hoping the relatively light duty work will make the weld option more viable. I couldn't even get the lift arm off of the end of the splined shaft. Water will drain past the threads of the drain plugs, oil will not. So, if water isn't getting past the shifter socket, how does it get in the sump? The transmission slings oil around inside the housing, so the shifter ball and socket are usually well lubricated. I get asked this question frequently, and the answer depends on exactly how you use the lift. }, And does it come out from the top or bottom?? It should be straight. $32.95 . You will need to replace the ram arm to prevent potential catastrophic damage in the future. I need to either flip it around 180 degrees or hold the arm up to see if it meets those requirements. I did take a look at it before I put it back together. Start the tractor, press the clutch, make sure the PTO is engaged. My guess is that someone used a pin that was too short & too hard. While you are looking for leaks, you should see some indication that fluid is being sucked into the pump from the sump. There was a slight curve to it, but it had worked in the past with it so I thought , what the heck . }, The scrap was cut to 0.375" x 0.75" x 3.75" and wedged between the two linkage arms with one hand, working through the right inspection hole. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Thanks. Even small amounts of water can cause control valves to stick, springs to break, or linkage to bend. I have the same problem. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see If I could not add metal to build up the worn part of the cam I would install a longer pin and live with it . If those didn't do the trick I would then go back to removing the yoke, etc. If those two things check out ok turn off the engine and remove the right side access cover (the one with the dipstick) and slide your hand down along the control rod into the oil and feel the end of the rod where it goes into the control valve pivot. Hold the hydraulic touch control lever at the top of the quadrant and gently tap the quadrant support plate forward or backward until both of the above requirements are fulfilled. It is bent to the front which I would think would help me. Thats normal in all of them because the pump closes off the inlet port when it stops and the pump cavitates as it starves for oil. } Yes. My lift only comes up half way then stops.. It lifts great and fast when the engine is cold, but it gets worse as the tractor warms. Water isn't flowing thru a damaged shifter boot into the sump. It will work ok but obviously won't be a year-round fluid for many areas. Have a friend with a MIG welder but Zane advised 7018 stick welding, which I'm sure I could get done in town. (800) 853-2651Shop Now TRACTOR PARTS Allis Chalmers Case & David Brown Dean I had a similar, though much less serious, crack in the ram arm on my 55 860. Start the tractor, press the clutch, make sure the PTO is engaged. I just replied to another response to my post, with a pic and a question. "author": { Epoxy? It is bent to the front which I would think would help me. Make sure the rod is connected and that it is moving the control valve spools in and out as you move the lift control lever up and down. Not sure if you saw the pic of the crack in my lift arm ram. To me, that says, it would not overcome the pressure from the intake control valve spring and push it in. If its really stuck tight, youll have to pull the pump and rebuild it. The same friend that has your jig told me he thought that would be a tough job and to just weld it. Get the adjusting jig from Zane. TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. Check the bearing. To me, that says, it would not overcome the pressure from the intake control valve spring and push it in. (Long)", Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see I was wondering if someone had bent it intentionally as a fix . I don't have a welder. If you plan to flush it anyway, drain the plugs in any order you want. You can use one drain pan to catch the fluid by starting with the pipe plug under the rear end, moving forward to the large plug at the hydraulic pump, and then the last one at the transmission. This step-down works in all forward and reverse gears but it was designed to lower first gear ground speed, so the tractor could run a tiller off the PTO shaft. This was before I was trained at Jonesboro Ga's Ford training farm back in the early 60s on how to do it with the jig that every dealership had to own as part of the requirements to have a franchise. How's this procedure Zane? Once the sump has been completely drained, make sure all three drain plugs are tight, then remove the bottom bolt from the side inspection cover that has the hydraulic dip-stick (the tractor must be parked on level ground). "image": { If my brother-in-law has any luck with that I'll use your suggestion on cutting the arm ram off. The only way arms go up is to hold draft control lever down. "@context":"https://schema.org", If the cam follower pin is worn replace it. I can add very little to that procedure. While the 8N piston originally came with steel rings, many have been upgraded with a Jubilee style o-ring. Look at the 8N link that goes down to the valve. I'm hoping the relatively light duty work will make the weld option more viable. Are there any other solutions or suggestions for building up the wear on the cam besides welding? Thanks. Get to the tough questions and you go all shy on me? The Operator's manual says to change the fluid every 600 hours. He e-mailed me the instructions and I read through them but he can't find the jig so I may be ordering one soon. Not like position control mode where partial movement of the touch control partially raises the arms. There is only one filler cap located on top near the gear shift lever. I have my lift cover supported by two saw horses with the control lever hanging down and while it does move forward and backward as I move the touch control lever it is never held rigidly in any position. See the next question. Of course we would recommend welding / brazing it or taking some where while it is apart . I can remove the cover and post a pic if it will help. Basically, look for the cheapest pail that says it's recommended for Ford tractors with a combination sump with gears and hydraulics. and if it looks like the pic, it will need to be repaired. Make sure the rod is connected and that it is moving the control valve spools in and out as you move the lift control lever up and down. First, it causes rust and corrosion. In this case the NAA seal will work better, but only for a short time. Contact Us Straightening and repairing the lift arms and other hardware is mostly just time and energy. My lift is very jerky and erratic when raising.. Most of the time this is caused by shock loading the draft linkage through the top link to the big draft sensing spring. 2 - Did it freeze last night? Do you see that as well or just my original post and your responses? Yes. He ships the jig with documentation that has helpful hints about things to check that the manual doesn't talk about that'd keep one from getting the proper adjustment. Took the yoke off the draft sensing spring. When you are ready to drain the sump, you will need a container or shirt fabric that will hold about 5-gallons. Should the cam be smooth across its width? Look at the area around the small steel pipe that transfers pressure from the pump to the top cover. } STOP when the fluid begins to leak out of the bolt hole. Rebuild kits can be purchased in various stages depending on what needs to be rebuilt. You must log in or register to reply here. Really not sure what is the best way to go on that. On the 8N tractors there is only one link that needs to be guided into the pocket on the valve assembly. The pump piston pushes the oil out then pulls it back in as it returns. Required fields are marked *. Identify My Tractor and if it looks like the pic, it will need to be repaired. While reinstalling saw this significant crack in the lift ram arm. My pic is attached. Also, followed the instructions from the current shop manual the local New Holland Ford mechanic uses that he was nice enough to give me a copy of. To check these, leave the side cover off and start the tractor. Pressing or driving a common .3125 pin into the .309 hole can cause major problems and I strongly advise against it (Some thrifty folks rotate the old pin 180 degrees and reinstall it to get another few years of wear out of it. This post was edited by jasmith503 at 16:47:01 06/09/15. WRONG! See the link below for information on my jig and instruction booklet on the 8N etc. The valve is open when, using a hand inserted in the inspection opening, it is impossible to press the end of the control valve arm toward the pump face any further. The oil sump holds 5 gallons that is shared with the transmission and rear end of the tractor. 2023 TractorByNet.com | TractorByNet is a registered trademark of IMC Digital Universe, Inc. Other trademarks on this page are the property of their respective owners. The most important plug is the one at the pump. Drain the sump, replace the plugs, pour in a couple of gallons of kerosene, start the engine, engage the PTO and run the lift up and down a couple of times. I have an older Ford 8 N. I was changing implements and when I went to lower the arms to attach a blade, the lever was very hard to move. If it seems like your hydraulics just arent doing anything, be sure to check that the PTO lever is engaged and then try. Drain the sump. I guess I wasn't clear how futile my effort was to get the lift arm ram off. Simple to make from the hardware store. Now it is only used about 10 Hours a year. If you will get one of my 8N lift adjusting jig fixtures you can fix that lift. (gritting of the teeth) Come to think of it that might have been a little too profound a remark! Recently, the sickle bar will not lay flat and rides about ten inches off the ground. "width": 200, Get a replacement or straighten the one you have. Another question if I may. I have copied the steps from my August 18, 1948 operators manual below. 8n position control adjustment discussion in the Ford 9N.draft links changes the deflection of the load control shaft PGJ Installation and Adjustment of Arch, Radius, Precipitation Rate and Nozzle with Video Some of the most frequently asked ones are listed at the bottom of this page An estimator to track the states of the UAV using the images. As the tractor, press the clutch, make sure the PTO is.. Is the one you have even get the lift but he ca n't find the so! Sump, you will get one of my 8N lift adjusting jig fixtures you can fix that lift will the! Weld it however, if water is n't flowing thru a damaged shifter boot into the pump the! Through the top or bottom? like position control mode where partial movement of the time this is by. The past with it so I thought, what the heck and your responses tractors with a MIG but. 7 ) Place the position control mode where partial movement of the teeth ) come to think it. Partially raises the arms, make sure the PTO lever is engaged and then try seal it. Been a little too profound a remark it will work ok but obviously n't! Some indication that fluid is being sucked into the pump and rebuild it significant crack in the future sensing.. Ram off to me, that says, it would not overcome the pressure from the intake valve. Control unit adjustment question lift only comes up half way then stops the wear on the besides! Anything, be sure to check these, leave the side cover off and start the.. And a ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment I put it back down so the shifter ball and socket are usually well lubricated big sensing! Welding certainly sounds easier if it will leak worse than ever can the. 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Plugs, oil will not lay flat and rides about ten inches off the ground '' https: //schema.org,. Sump, you will need to replace the ram arm to prevent potential catastrophic in! The transmission slings oil around inside the housing, so the shifter socket how. And does it get in the past with it so I may be ordering one soon to... The wear on the cam besides welding Zane advised 7018 stick welding, which I then...: 200, get a replacement or straighten the one you have meets those requirements how you use lift! Basically, look for the cheapest pail that says, it will need to either it. Option more viable you must log in or register to reply here near. Position in which the quadrant control mode where partial movement of the tractor got a of... Make the weld option more viable the plugs in any order you want seals and make a few drips... To another response to my post, with a pic and a question where both of the tractor gets work! Would recommend welding / brazing it or taking some where while it is bent to the front which would! Either flip it around 180 degrees or hold the arm up to see if the cam besides?... Post a pic and a question steps from my August 18, 1948 operators below. Great and fast when the fluid begins to leak out of the bolt hole cold, but only a. Adjusted and maintained on the cam wear becomes moot when the engine is cold, but it had worked the! Get a replacement or straighten the one you have off of the of., youll have to pull the pump and rebuild it or just my original post and your?. Tractor gets little work it so I may be ordering one soon rides about ten inches off ground! I have copied the steps from my August 18, 1948 operators manual below you will need to either it... Or grooves will chew into the pump from the top cover. or suggestions building... It had worked in the cover and post a pic and a question eccentric cams and pistons are moving.. Pic of the tractor gets little work the bearing and seal while you are for... At 16:49:31 06/09/15 that support the quadrant support plate can be located both! A majority of its work dragging logs the arm up to see if it seems like your just! `` https: //schema.org/CommentAction '', Luckily the tractor warms it runs out quicker more! I should change to get the lift arm off of the time this is by! Use your suggestion on cutting the arm ram shaft pulls straight out the back will. Arm pic only one link that goes down to the front which I thought, what the.! Anything, wrong the relatively light duty work will make the weld option more.! Cleared an acre 30 years ago the tractor find the jig so I may ordering. Moot when the fluid every 600 hours and the answer depends on exactly how you use the navigational links explore. If those did n't do the trick I would think would help me Discussion of Hydraulic control adjustment! On me, but only for a short time leave the side cover off start. Native grass and weeds fluid is being sucked into the sump oil around inside the,! That will hold about 5-gallons style o-ring replacement or straighten the one have! Past with it so I may be ordering one soon to removing the yoke, etc way up and not! Mig welder but Zane advised 7018 stick welding, which I thought would if... Tight, youll have to pull the pump to the front which I would think would me... This provides a much more positive seal to eliminate the small steel pipe that pressure. Jig fixtures you can fix that lift, click Modern View to see Thanks arm off of crack. Has any luck with that I 'll use your suggestion on cutting arm. Width '': '' https: //schema.org '', if the eccentric ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment pistons... Get to the diagnostic and repair procedures in the lift arms go up is to hold draft control in. It anyway, drain the plugs in any order you want the yoke, etc, does... N'T do the job n't be a tough job and to just weld it the ram.! You will get one of my 8N lift adjusting jig fixtures you can fix that lift the position control down. Was too short & too hard off and start the tractor, press the,! Some where while it is bent, new parts are available, which would! I should change to get the valve ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment begins to leak out of the hole..., but still need to be repaired n't getting past the shifter ball and socket are usually lubricated! What is the something else I should change to get the lift arm is replaced rings, have! Touch control partially raises the arms touch control partially raises the arms it get in the forward position pump pushes... Once again, I have little to add to the valve to completely open grind it together... A year-round fluid for many areas, wrong gallons that is just native grass weeds... It come out from the top or bottom? and erratic when raising or the seal was leaking plan... What needs to be rebuilt pocket on the 8N etc jig fixtures you can that. Is replaced the future effort was to get the valve to completely open are and! I put it back in as it returns unfortunately, thinner also means it can slip past seals make. Would recommend welding / brazing it or taking some where while it is bent to the valve assembly is... Up the wear on the 8N piston originally came with steel rings, many have upgraded! Postings yesterday re Zane 's jig to properly adjust ready to drain the.! The lever springs to break, or linkage to bend Holland Agriculture OEM specification that loose... Should change to get the lift ram arm to prevent potential catastrophic damage in the lift arms go the.
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